I’m in the Giant Forest area of the Sequoia NP, so named by the great John Muir who describes it far more eloquently than I or most mere mortals. ‘When I entered this sublime wilderness the day was nearly done. The trees with rosy glowing countenances seemed to be hushed and thoughtful, as if waiting in conscious religious dependance on the sun, and one naturally walked softly and awestricken among them.’ – the words are bigger than I would have used but my observations exactly! The Giant Forest is made up of local pines and sequoias. The sequoia is of the pine tree family also but where most pine trees typically thin to a fine point, the sequoias uniquely lose little of their girth to the top and suddenly stop, hence their claim to the most voluminous trees on the planet. They get to an age when the tip dies off and they just grow outwards from then. To be amongst these huge beautiful trees is not just a visual experience but an emotional one as well. It brings tears to my eyes.
I camped overnight at Dorst Creek. It’s a busy spot and I was lucky to get a camp. It’s a bit of a distance from the main site, Lodgepole, which has all of the facilities but also easy access to shuttle services and some interesting hiking trails. I will pack up and try my luck for getting into the Lodgepole camp ground. But while packing I get invited to breakfast by my camp neighbours. They are a large Mexican-American family from Orange County near LA who get together once a year here for a family gathering and there are many generations of them. They force me to eat…and eat…and eat! ‘We like to eat’. Bacon and eggs, home made tortillas and salsa, Mexican cheese, the sweetest watermelon and of course coffee – fantastic.
The animals in these parks are amazing. All around are cute ground squirrels, a pair of mule deer come through while we were breakfasting and while waiting for the bus, a pine martin (weasel like critter) scampers across with a squirrel in it’s mouth. They are natural predators of the cute little squirrels and very cute looking themselves. I got some photos.
I find a quiet trail through the Giant Forest and come across my first black bear! What a buzz! I don’t feel at all threatened. These bears are more naughty than nasty. They will come into camps or cars if there is food around and will destroy anything to get at it. They can wreck your plans but unlikely to physically hurt you – hence the metal food lockers and the constant messages to keep all food locked away. Sure, they can do you some damage if they wanted to but you usually need to instigate the confrontation. Even a kangaroo can be just as dangerous. Initially in the early life of visitation to these national parks, rangers would set up food dumps to deliberately attract the bears to the people for entertainment. This of course led to a welfare dependency developing within the black bears behavior, with all sorts of negative consequences. The bears uncharacteristically brought together would fight and bear cubs would be ripped apart right before spectators eyes. This practiced was stopped in the 1940’s and now the opposite is encouraged. Severe fines can be imposed if you are caught either deliberately or accidentally feeding the bears. All food must be stored in metal cabinets provided.
Grizzly bears are different to black bears. They are much bigger with serious attitude and are unpredictable. You avoid them at at any opportunity. Grizzly bears used to reside throughout California but they were wiped out by early settlers. They are no longer found in this state, despite it being the feature emblem on the state flag.
Those are the bear facts!
Anyway, back to my trail. I also come across a Sierra Nervada red-crested woodpecker (I made that name up but all the adjectives are relevant). The noise alerted me to them. How tough are their beaks and that brain-rattling hammering of the trees. I get a headache just watching.
The trail comes out at Moro Rock. It is a large rocky projection that I suspect has resisted the abrasive intentions of glaciers over the eons. You can walk out onto Moro Rock, and many people do, to get spectacular views both to the east towards the snow capped mountains and to the west towards the polluted coastal regions.
The day ends around a campfire with a Californian Chardonnay from a tetrapak (what a great idea) at my isolated campsite with the sounds of a babbling creek in the background! I have booked three nights but will try to extend to four. I’m located at the very end of this campsite. A mule deer comes within seven meters of me to drink. He (antlers are a gender sign) drinks, then we eyeball each other then he drinks again before moving off for a graze on the local bushes. This day has been a good one. From a generous Mexicali breakfast to a black bear sighting to a campsite deer invasion! For dinner – crudely toasted potato bread and chicken and rice soup from a can!
angusmccoll 