New Orleans is known lovingly as NOLA to the locals. This stands for ‘New Orleans Louisiana America’. I have only just arrive and already it is clear this is easily the most interesting city I have visited in USA. There is history here and it’s not just written in the amazing buildings but the people as well. The architecture is strongly influenced by French and Spanish design. The people are descended from a much richer mix and you need to have an appreciation of Louisiana’s complex history to understand the human makeup here. From my understanding the Spanish first arrived for a look back in the 1500s but were scared off by alligators and indians. The French arrived looking for mineral wealth about 150 years later and while not having any luck with the precious minerals, decided to stay anyway to strengthen their colonial intentions. They brought in convicts and hardy pioneers to develop New Orleans, Then war-weary Germans were encouraged to bring their farming skills to the region and for labour they brought in slaves from colonies in Africa and later the Caribbean. The Spanish took over control in 1769 as France was too busy fighting the English. The Spanish introduced bricks and decorative wrought iron to the architecture as well as a new administrative structure. Spain then gives Louisanna back to France in 1803, who held it very briefly for just 20 days before selling it to America. This was known as the Louisanna Purchase. America put in an offer for New Orleans and Napolean sold them the whole of Louisiana. He needed the money to fund his war effort but more importantly he didn’t want Louisiana getting into English hands. In one moment America doubled in size. And the story goes on. Wars followed against the English in the Battle of New Orleans and of course the Civil War that ended slavery. If the mighty Mississippi could talk, what a tale it could tell.
People from all parts of the world flooded into Louisiana after Americans gained control and those influences can be seen today. The culture here is unique to other parts of America I have visited. Afro-Americans make up a large proportion of the population and they are much darker in colour than other places I have been. I love the way they talk. It is English and I eventually understand what they are saying but it is hard. Conversations are heavily punctuated with ‘Ya know what I’m sayin?’ They are the workers here. They are the ones running the hotels, restaurants, cafes bars, taxis, buses, everything really. They built this town. And of course they provide the bulk of the music you hear.
The Superdome.
I start the day with a walk down to the river again and then to the Superdome. The Superdome was such a feature of the news stories going around the world concerning the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. This sporting arena was refuge for so many people escaping the flood waters from Katrina and the failed levee banks. They were held up in the Superdome for way too long before help arrived and conditions there deteriorated into filth and anarchy. I wanted to see this place and while walking around it, they were preparing to open up for football. It’s Saturday afternoon and there is two games on the schedule. I decide to catch one. It’s college football between Tulane and Tulsa. It’s very impressive inside. It is completely enclosed and heavily air-conditioned. There are college brass bands playing and heaps of colour and spectacle – and this is for a college game! The pro games would even be bigger. Anyway it’s confirmed in my mind that American football is a tedious sport to watch! It didn’t help that I couldn’t understand the rules. The crowd was certainly passionate about what was going on. The noise at times was deafening. I couldn’t last the whole game. It was too cold, my fingers went numb. The Saints represent New Orleans in the pro league and they won last year. They are passionately followed by the locals.
angusmccoll 