The hotel where I am staying is a family owned boutique business. The owners live onsite. It’s like their home, but with many rooms. I estimate there are about 18 rooms. Rent at this quite time of year is 380,000 dong per night, about $20. To hire a motorbike for the day was 150,000 dong or just over $8. This Hotel is called Ha Long Unique Hotel and is located just back from the water, and in a non tourist area. I rarely see other tourist here but it’s an easy walk to the boat terminals. This will change though. By the amount of development happening nearby, this part of Ha Long will be very different in five years time.
I enjoyed Ha Long city more than I thought I would. I expected it to be this characterless tourist city but it has had a life well before tourism came to its doors. It’s an industrial city, which may explain the persistent smog around the Bay and it’s islands, and authentically Vietnamese. It’s a busy place with much character, as are the city’s and towns around it. The limestone projections that make up the islands in the bay aren’t confined to there. They are on land as well and form a spectacular backdrop to the gritty city of Ha Long and others near by. It was great being able to explore the surrounds on a motorbike.
We catch the bus for Hanoi at 2pm and arrive after 6pm. It’s not that far but driving on these busy roads is very slow because of poor roads and much traffic. There is no accommodation organised in Hanoi and fortunately the bus stops just outside the French Quarter. The iPhone shows many hotel options close by.
angusmccoll 
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