SuAs meets me at the hotel at 8am. We take a taxi to Swayambhu, the Monkey Temple. I’ve been here before but not at this early hour of the day. The light is great for photos and the statues and stupas glow. Even at this time there is so much going on here. It must be such a ritual for the followers to come here at times of the week to make offerings to their God. Both Buddhists and Hindus are catered for here. I’m still confused as to why the two religions are so closely associated. From my limited knowledge the teachings seem so different.
We meet Raj there at the wishing well and decide to go to the White Monastry, which prides itself on being one of the biggest monasteries in Asia – so the boys tell me. We walk then catch a micro bus. What an experience! These beat up minivans get so crowded. I’m the biggest person in the bus, half sitting on a little old Tibetan woman. These buses are very cheep so are worth the effort if you know what your doing. The guys are showing me the way. From the final stop it’s a hike up a steep hill to two monasteries. Sadly the ‘Red Monastey’ is closed and we can’t enter. Just behind and further up the hill is the ‘White Monastry’. It’s closed too because it has suffered badly from the earthquake and is under repair. There are many monk nuns about, busily doing their chores. They have an unusual uniform or dress that includes a snappy looking beret. We come across another group of female monks on sophisticated looking mountain bikes. They’re grinding their way up the hilly road to the monastery. Raj explains that this is part of their fitness regime. What an effort. We go behind the huge Monastry to a scene of sad destruction. A small school lies in ruins because of the earthquake. It happened on a Saturday so it’s unlikely any children were harmed there. Saturday is the one day of the week the schools are closed.
While here Raj chats to three Chinese guys looking around. They saw a big white thing on google maps so decided to investigate. They had no idea what it was. How funny.
We take a shortcut down the hill through a pine forest. Raj knows it well because it’s his back yard. As a kid he played all through here. At the first houses on the edge of the forest we call in. This is Raj’s home. It’s a very simple dwelling of mud and tin on the steep edge of the hill. He introduces me to his parents and grandfather and other members of his family. We stay for a traditional dal bhat lunch. I feel so humbled to be here as a guest. They are so poor but so giving. The views from here though are spectacular. You would pay millions in Australia for such s vantage point. From here Raj goes into the city by foot and bus to work and study. What a tough life. He doesn’t have much work these days because the tourism business that employs him doesn’t get much business from the few tourists visiting these days. That’s why he has time to show me around.
We catch a taxi back into Thamel and the guys show me back to the hotel.
I catch again with Ganesh for beers and pool at the Irish bar, until closing time – midnight!
your updates are filled with great stories! loving it! But sad to here how much the effects of the earthquake are still infiltrating the daily life of the Nepalese. Say Hi to Raju for me :). I here Som has a trail run on next January…….that would be awesome! I may have to do some training and see if things come together for that. Doing the Croc Trophy this year…..
Yeah it’s pretty tough here for many. Som’s inaugural trail run was this January and aims to make it an annual event. Raju is expecting a baby in late April.