We’re off to visit Raju’s and Cadje’s village today. Their village and family are in the Gorkha region. We’re going by jeep. We leave the hotel around 10am with Raju, Cadje, Ganesh and another friend from the village, and dipendta the driver. And Jasper. Jasper sponsors some children and has given money to the village for various causes. He’s 55 and from Denmark, and quite eccentric. He’s eccentricity is the product of autism, something he admits himself, but he comes from a wealthy family and has helped here in Nepal for many years. Jasper is a Christian Pastor and is doing some work for his church.
On leaving Kathmandu we drive past a pile of rubble that was once a church. Raju and Cadje explain the it was a church but the earthquake collapsed it with its congregation inside so many lives were lost. Apparently s service was in progress when the earth shook and the pastor locked the doors and told his followers we are safe here, Jesus will save them. The people started chanting ‘Rama Rama’, which is a Hindu god, but the pastor demanded they chant Jesus’s name. The building fell and the entire congregation of over 50 people perished.
We exit Kathmandu and make our way along the main road that goes to pokhara. We lunch at Manakhu, which is on a river and is popular for its fish foods. The variety of fish products are interesting and include a small shrimp that is deep fried and eaten whole. We try a fish curry with rice. It’s nice. We turn off the highway here and cross the river. The road is now a very rough and windy dirt track that follows another river. We’re high up and this simple narrow track has some terrifyingly steep sides. Cadje explains that this river will be dammed for hydro power and a huge lake will consume much of the land we can see below us now. This will have a major impact on the villages we pass through. We’re traveling only 17 kilometers to the village but it takes 3 hours. We arrive around 5 to Raju’s and Cadje’s parents place. Their mother greets us in the Hindu tradition, marking our forehead with a mix of crushed rice and red dye and giving a small flower to put behind our ear. And a necklace of hibiscus flowers. Jasper will have no part of it sadly. His Christian beliefs won’t accept this greeting, which I think is disrespectful but the family don’t seem to mind.
Raju and Cadje’s parents are in their eighties. Nobody knows exactly how old because they don’t even know themselves. This is common in Nepal because records aren’t kept, no birth certificates. Their father still works in the field despite being stooped in posture and walking with the help of a stick. There are many in the village of their age. The life here must give longevity. Sadly there aren’t many young people following in their footsteps. They are educated and moving to the cities or overseas for an easier life and this is a Selina for the villages. Much land is being left unattended because there is nobody to work them.
In Raju’s fathers family there are five boys. In his mother’s family there are five girls. The five boys married the five girls. And most of them still live in the village.
We relax at Raju’s parents house. Roxy is an alcohol made from fermented millet. It’s a Nepalese invention and each house would have their own production. It’s a clear drink with a low level of alcohol so it is often drunk throughout the day, even breakfast time. It’s offered to guests when they visit but it also dulls life’s pains. It’s mild and you can drink a lot before becoming intoxicated, and it’s completely organic so no nasty side effects. We relax and drink Roxy. The family gathers. Raju and Cadje have an older brother and sister, who live in the village, both married with grown children. Nepalese village life is very traditional and matriarchal. Land and property are passed down to the boys in the family but the boys in this family want their sister included in ownership of everything. This is progressive thinking. This is a proudly progressive family and they are respected members of the community. Villagers gather here tonight to welcome us through music and dance. And of course we are invited to take part. I’ve had enough Roxy now to give it a go. Ganesh helps explain what’s going on. Jasper again doesn’t want to take part. The party goes well beyond the day and I’m exhausted.
angusmccoll 