Today we explore the village. There is a persistent haze of smoke and dust that softens the sun and limits the views. On a clear day the views from here are stunning I am told. Manaslu is one of Nepal’s higher peaks and is in the Gorkha region. It’s usually visible from here but not now and the villagers are concerned. It’s very dry, from a failed monsoon season last year and the earthquake has changed the aquifers so that plentiful springs are now useless. This is a major orange-growing area but a fungus has rendered the entire crop nonproductive. Trees are being removed. There’s a lot to worry about here but the proposed dam and hydro scheme will change life here, some for good and some for bad. Entrepreneurs are snooping around to buy up land for future growth in tourism.
There are two schools in the village. The main one has over 900 students, who can go right through to Year 12. Like so many other schools in earthquake torn Nepal, this large school had been temporarily rebuilt with tin and timber. The other school is higher up and caters for 270 students. This school is in the lower caste part of the village.
We walk up through this part of the village and Cadje stops in on a family. He’s never been a follower of the caste system and doesn’t let these cultural prejudices get in his way. We chat to a man who is a clothes maker and this is a typical occupation of a low caste, as are blacksmiths, carpenters, leather workers, etc. He’s getting on in years and his eyesight is making it difficult for him to thread a needle. He’s using a beautiful old peddle-powered sewing machine. I happen to have a cheap pair of glasses I bought from a chemist in Australia. He tries them and they help. They suit him too.
We continue up and chat to some of the school teachers from the school in the low caste area. A Danish benefactor has given money for the purchase of land to relocate the school, and the wages of two teachers.
We make it to the top of the hill where there is a telecommunication tower and a temple. We sit and if it wasn’t for the haze, I’m sure we would be blown away by the view. Sadly there is little view. Ironically the haze does make for spectacular sunsets.
Raju’s family’s house is at the Centre of the community again as they gather for a meeting to discuss projects for the village. They have money now to do some things and they want to make a start. First up is a community toilet and shower near the temple. A library is on the plans too. Raju and Cadje have saved many books from the earthquake and this will be their new home. Great idea. The Roxy flows and it’s another great night. There is much discussion in Nepalese but the English speakers thoughtfully keep me in touch with what’s being discussed. I’ve felt so included the entire time I’ve been here, thanks to them.
angusmccoll 