On Sumba island in Indonesia there are many religions – Christianity (majority), Islam, Hinduism and horses.
Like all of the islands that make up Indonesia, Sumba has its own unique culture. Various colonialists through out its history have introduced a variety of religions but old traditions still play a role in the lives of the people here. Modern life is a blend of the old and new. The Pasola Festival is a spectacularly visual example of this. Tribal conflicts were fought out on horseback and today these conflicts are ritualised in mock battles. On this day each year they dress up themselves and their horses in colourful traditional style and literally battle it out. They use blunt wooden spears that avoid too much damage. As in war there are two sides and today there are about 30 horses aside. Then it’s a process of charging at each other while hurling these spears. It looks chaotic but I’m told there is some structure to the battle plan.
It’s a big day. Politicians take advantage of the occasion making the start painfully slow. The festival draws a crowd. Throngs of locals make their way to the battlefield to take in the spectacle. A few foreigners are here from all parts of the world capturing the show with all the technology that is available today. I counted about 20 drones in the air filming the action and camera crews from who knows where. It’s impressive to watch if you can. Thick crowds make it very difficult and observers will do anything to get a view. Surrounding trees groan under the weight of them. I struggled and I’m a tall person here amongst the shorter Sumbanese. I felt sorry for a teenager straining for a view next to me so offered a seat on my shoulders. I then passed my camera to him to capture some video for me.
This ‘sport’ looks dangerous because it is. Even the crowd is at risk from wayward spears. These spears fly at speed for great distances, aimed at riders and horses. Amazingly targets seem to be able to duck out of the way or casually glance the spears away. The crowd roars when a spear finds a target. In the middle are spear gathers from each side. They run around gathering the spears to rearm their combatants. They must be the bravest (or craziest) of all. Participants are of all ages, from old men to young boys. Armed police and military are everywhere. In the past, deadly fighting has broken out and it’s not hard to see how. Footed commanders attempt to maintain some order and sportsmanship amongst their team. It’s an amazing spectacle unique to western sumba. Who won? It was very diplomatically called a draw.
We we’re picked up by a driver and guide at 6am from our hotel in Waikabubak. They took us to a battle on the beach. It’s at a clearing on a pretty beach where the battle raged on sand. Falling off your horse was gentle. After this battle we went in to another more official battle up in the hills. It was a long day. Back to the hotel in Waikabubak.
Also staying at the hotel was an elderly German traveller, Johannas, who gave me some travel ideas. He’s travelled this part of the world extensively over his life time.
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