Saturday 2nd March 2019

I read about Paga on Flores and the opportunities to experience nice beaches from the Lonely Plants guide so rather than spend a night in the airport town of Maumere, I caught a mini bus from town directly from my flight for Koka Beach. My rogue of a taxi driver from the airport to the bus recommended staying at Cowboy Ricky’s place near Paga. I nervously went with it. After a hairy ride in an overpacked mini bus with bald wire-exposed tyres in the pouring rain over a windy mountainous road, they dropped me off without directions! I found signs. Quaint little bungalows are what I first see, then Cowboy Ricky. He’s a local but obviously a stand out character. Shirtless and bejeweled in all sorts of regalia he introduces himself and shows me around. Facilities are truly basic. Open bucket showers and toilets and an open kitchen if you want to cook your own stuff.

Right away I want to visit the beach which is 2km away. A bungalow owner on the beach picks me up and gives the hard sell about his place. It looks very nice and right on the beach. Anyway I’ve committed to Ricky’s for tonight.

Wow, it’s beautiful. White sandy coves find space in a rocky coastline. Fishermen fix their nets. I walk to the top of a knoll for views. It really is pretty and will become a tourist lure. I’m located between Maumere and a place called Moni, where tourists go to experience famous crater lakes of multi colours. With a bintang in hand after a walk around I’m approached by Joseph, a young local man collecting shells on the beach. He stops to practice his English. He’s come home after working in other parts of Indonesia to be closer to his ailing mother. And because he suffered some illness. He’s father and brother have passed away from illness. He’s English is good, he says from school and an effort to engage with tourists. He’s catholic as are a large majority of the population on Flores island. He’s a beautiful personality and easy to engage with. He wants to make jewelry with his shells to sell to the tourists but he also wants to become a guide and is waiting for a certificate from the government. He offers me a lift back up the bumpy road to Ricky’s. I offer to pay but he refuses, which is extraordinarily refreshing and genuine when travelling. I like him a lot.

I’m s but out of the town of Paga but Ricky points me in the direction of A local warung (or restaurant). It’s a small family place and the food is awesome. My second meal of you day.

I was very unsure of how this day would turn out, from my flight with Wings Air with their reputation for cancelling flights, to my plan of avoiding Mauree by bus to Paga. I’m very happy so far. Can I stay another night? I really want to.