Category Archives: diary

This morning I organise travel for the next few days. I find a travel agent on the street and book a tour for tomorrow, my bus to Hue and a flight from Hue back to Saigon. I’m the first customer so I get special ‘morning price’! Her daughter runs a massage and spa next doorContinue reading “Friday 30 November: Hoi An”

Sitting on the beach at Hoi An with a beer in hand right now after arriving here just after lunch. Five days on the back of a bike is enough for me physically but the experiences have been priceless. Hoi An is very touristy and I feel very uncomfortable amongst the ‘foreigners’ despite being oneContinue reading “Thursday 29 November: Hoi An”

We lunch today at Dak Glei, a village named after the hills tribe whose land this is. An elderly gentleman greets me with a genuine warm smile. Hero tells me later he was a Viet Cong soldier during the War. We’re following the famous Ho Chi Minh trail today. The Ho Chi Minh trail isn’tContinue reading “Wednesday 28 November: Ho Chi Minh Road”

The day starts with a visit to an tourist elephant-riding place. I forgo the opportunity to go riding but I love being up close with these animals. There is a ‘knowing’ in their eyes that gives this animal a special place in my psyche. It’s no wonder they feature so highly in eastern mythology andContinue reading “Monday 26 November: to Buon Ma Thuot”

I’m on a bike tour! These are popular ways to tour around here. Your Guide has. Bike and you tailor an itinerary to suit yourself and off you go. My guide/driver is Hero, about late 40s. He has a family in Da Lat and this is his business now. He has the business with oneContinue reading “Sunday 25 November: on the bike to Lak Resort”

Interestingly Da Lat was spared the ravages of war through some agreement on both sides. I have read that military leaders on both sides used this place as a cool respite – the allied commanders in one corner and the Viet Cong in another corner. Such are the curious rules of war. It has rainedContinue reading “Saturday 24 November: around Da Lat”

Just arrived in Da Lat after 8 hours on the bus from Ho Chi Minh City I arrive here at 8.30pm. I meet Jimmy on the bus with his girl friend and follow them into town. They help me find this great cheap hotel in the city centre and right away I hit the streets.Continue reading “Friday 23 November: Da Lat”

‘My name is Phong and I am your guide today. I’m 29 years old and still not married. My parents worry. I’m not worried. Still plenty of time. There are two Vietnamese women on this tour. They are very beautiful’. Phong either wears his heart on his sleeve or he could easily get a gigContinue reading “Thursday 22 November: Cao Dai Great Temple + Cu Chi tunnel tour”

Children stand proudly in front of the tanks that crashed through the palace gates to signal the end to the American War. The tanks are now immortalised in the palace grounds. ‘The Chinese were here for 1000 years, the French 100 years, the Americans 10 years…now all gone’ is the proud catch-cry of our tourContinue reading “Wednesday 21 November: Ho Chi Minh City, day 3”

Sam Lee, my guide, explains to me the war museums in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMS) have ‘softened’ their anti-American rhetoric to win back favour with the USA to encourage trade and investment. Much of the photos and displays have been removed. With this in mind I visited the War Remnants Museum. Wow! If theContinue reading “Tuesday 20 November: Ho Chi Minh city, day 2”