angusmccoll

I decided to spend an uninterrupted day in Pak Beng by booking two nights. That was a mistake. I’d be one of the very few to do this it seems because the rhythm of the town dances to tourists rushing in in the evening and rushing out in the morning. Nothing happens during the day and it’s even difficult to get somewhere to serve lunch. Even my guesthouse shuts down. There’s no wifi and no staff around to complain to. Anyway it’s nice to have a walk around.

After a month in Luang Prabang staying at the Hello Guesthouse and teaching English, I leave for Thailand via the slow boat up the Mekong River. You can choose to do the slow boat over 2 days to get to the border town of Huay Xia for the crossing into Thailand. Or you can do the trip in a day on the fast boats. These are high powered speed boats with a limited carrying capacity but they can get you there fast. I choose the slow boat so the destination for today is a village on the river called Pak Beng. I book two nights here to have a look around.

Wei was kind enough to take me to the boat terminal in his car, saving me the Tuk Tuk fare. Kevin and Jack came to see me off too. This was a nice gesture. We get to the terminal in plenty of time and I get my ticket for 105,000 kip. We say our goodbyes. Jack takes photos and they end up on Facebook.

On the boat are about even Lao to foreigners. I’m surprised by the number of foreigners around at this time of the year. As well as our boat there are chartered boats full of tourists. Fortunately our boat is not over crowded so there’s room to spread out. The river has a significant current in it making the boat work hard. Visible and invisible rocky outcrops make the water boil and swirl. The skippers of these boats have to be experienced. The river is full of hazards, some they would be familiar with and some that appear without warning. It’s the wet season and the extra flow brings with it all sorts of debris.

We make good speed. Either side of the river are jungle covered hills and peaks. It’s so green in contrast to the muddy brown river. Villages splatter the river edges on both sides. The jungle gives way to the occasional banana or corn crop. Goats, cattle and buffalo feed and water on the river’s edge. What a great way to travel. I keep an eye out but don’t find any wild animals. 

We reach Pak Beng around 6.30pm after departing Luang Prabang at 8.30am. There are plenty of sprukers to greet us but I’ve booked my guesthouse through Agoda. Pity! It takes about 800 meters up the road to get to my guesthouse with the unpronounceable name.

Today I head back to Pakse. An open backed mini bus or small truck picked me up at the hotel around 6.40am and drive into Pakse. It only took about 45 minutes. I tried to get a room at the same hotel I stayed in last time but they didn’t have any of the cheaper options left. I walked next door and found something there. Downloaded the latest episode of Game of Thrones and watched it twice because it was so good. I also did some editing for Raju’s website. Went for a short walk in the late afternoon.

Champasak is a small village across the Mekong River in southern Laos. I get there via a 40km mini bus ride from my hotel in Pakse to catch a ferry of sorts. The ferry is a long boat modified to carry one or two small motorbikes. Today it’s me and one small motorbike.the river is about a kilometer wide here and I suspect fairly shallow. It’s slow moving and there are islands in the river. Some of the islands are big enough to support communities and have beautiful sand beaches – in the dry season that is. When the wet is in full force I suspect the beaches will go under. Some of the islands are set up for tourism and attract many foreigners during the dry season. There is still a steady flow even now when it’s hot and wet. I bypass the islands to visit the village of Champasak. This place has history and once was a city of note. Now it’s reduced to a couple of streets that run along the river. 

I walk from the ferry to a guest house I found online. It’s so hot even at 9.30 in the morning. It’s ice enough, except for the cranky dog that greets me every time I walk into the place. It overlooks the river and a large island. It’s a simple boat ride away but I’m not sure if I will bother. 

I test then walk through the town around 4pm. There are some nice temples here. Interestingly they’re a mix of French and Laos architecture. It’s the older temples that have the French influence. The newer ones are typically Lao. Some of the houses are grand and very French in style. There is money here and many new cars and 4-wheel drives are testament to that. I don’t know where the money is coming from.

Laos is full of archaeological intrigue. It’s history is complex and it seems the edges of Laos has been under the influence of many different civilizations. Today I visited Wat Phu. It was an ancient city with similarities to Ankor Wat in Cambodia. The same peoples were involved in the construction.

Champasak is just a village now on the Mekong River but in its time it was a place of royalty and palaEditces. It was an ancient city. Currently there are teams of archaeologists from France, India and Korea studying and restoring the ancient city and the temples of Wat Phu. Wat Phu is World Heritage listed. It’s located at the base of a sacred mountain because the shape of that mountain has the phallic shape of the Hindu God Shiva. It appears to date back to the 5th century AD. It was the place of kings. But over time the political Centre of the Khmer people’s shifted to Ankor Wat 240km away in the 9th century AD. Wat Phu still remained a place of religious significance especially for Bhuddist. And to this day it is a place for Buddhist pilgrims. 

I hired a scooter today and rode about 10km to get to Wat Phu from my guest house. I spent the morning walking around the site unassisted, armed only with an explanatory brochure. A brief encounter with a museum helped but I still have many questions. It’s so complex, but fascinating.

The village of Champasak today is a mix of French and Laos architecture. There are some beautiful French structures here inhabited by wealthier Laotians I suspect. Even some of the many Buddhist temples here have French influence in their structure. Although the newer temples are typically Laos, further eroding their French history.

Looking out over the river now over a beer and the sky is electric. There are thunder storms every day and the humidity is oppressive. Last night a storm passed through around midnight and the thunder was like nothing I’ve heard before. It was amazing.

Had a simple plan for the day but that went out the window as soon as I exited the hotel. A smooth-talking tour guide convinced me to go with him for the day. He suggested some sights to see and the cost seemed reasonable. But shortly into the drive, snail paced by traffic, he kept suggesting changes. These changes started to benifit him more so the ride became tense and argumentative. I did see some interesting things in the day but it was spoiled by the attitude of the driver. I did get to see some amazing temples and markets.

Bangkok has lots to offer but getting around by public transport is confusing and difficult. The limited rail system is run by different organizations so is complicated. I didn’t try the bus system. 

Im staying in a hotel away from the city Centre and that is where everything is. I’m exhausted.

Flew to Bangkok today. Morning was spent packing up. I’m frustrated by the amount of luggage I have and am getting sick of lugging it around. How can I lessen it? I’m travelling through many seasons so carry gear to cater but would it be better to just buy stuff as I need it? Perhaps that is a better idea. I’ll consider it. It would mean dumping stuff that I will need later on.

I lug my gear to the train and get to the airport in plenty of time. No dramas. Flight went to plan on Air Asia and I arrive in Bangkok tired. Going through immigration is painfully slow and a family in the line before me is holding up proceedings. Then the mother gets the family to pose for a photo at the counter. I snap and tap her on the shoulder and tell her to hurry. The taxi ride to hotel takes over an hour! The traffic is clogged to snail pace dispite there being two levels of roads. We’re on the ground in the shadow of another highway above us. It is Friday afternoon. I booked a hotel online called NASA Vagas. It was cheep but I arrive at this huge complex. I’m on the 16th floor. It’s just like a Vagas casino without the casino…or perhaps it has one. I don’t know yet. I’m outside of the hotel having a beer. It’s right on a major road and overpass so quietness is not an option. There is a train line running past so at least I’ll have access to cheap transport from here.

Had a hit of tennis this morning. It’s muggy in Singspore and there are thunder storms about. It’s coming I tithe monsoon season and it feels like it. The tennis courts are part if an apartment complex and my friend has access. The courts are top quality and we’re surrounded by high rises. The sun bounces off the buildings so there is little escape from the direct heat. We have a good hit and it’s good to reconnect with the game after so long. I have to borrow a racquet.

On the way back to my hotel I call into Chinatown got a brief look. Like Chinatowns anywhere, this one is full of markets and beautiful Chinese decoration. Plenty of foreigners in this part. The clouds have opened up and it’s raining.

The children go through their morning routine and prepare for school. After they get into their uniforms I take some photos of them fooling around. I decide to walk to school with them. They go to four different schools so I go to the school where the most of them go. Sharosati school is about a 20-minute walk and they all walk together in line. Jeena, the oldest, is at the back. Reechi and Arma come too. I had intended just to walk to the school and return but once there I get asked to take a lesson. I agree and for 40 minutes I take class 8 through a lesson from their text book. It was fun. Then the students went through their morning assembly and anthem. I got asked to take another class. This time class 9 and again I take them through a lesson from their text book. I focus on their pronunciation. I’m impressed by their ability.

The three of us walk back to the orphanage. I rest while waiting for the electricity to come back on do I can work on editing the text in the website. I also edit the photos I took this morning. 

It’s hot and there are thunderstorms about. They have huge storms here but very little rain comes from them. Fortunately the children get back to the orphanage before it rains. I take more photos of them before they get out of their uniforms. Jeena takes me too the shop and I buy some maths kits for the kids.

Before dinner I give out yo the kids pencils Narelle gave me in Australia and some little koala bears and balloons. They had fun. One of the children is a stand out for me. Asis lost both his parents in the earthquake. He was playing in the field while his parents were inside the house. He is about 8 years of age and is the most beautifully natured boy I’ve ever met. He’s eyes are so alive and he has a smile that can tear your heart apart. He’s happy and always chatting to me in Nepalese thinking I understand. I know when he’s asking a question and I always answers ‘yes I think so’. He seems happy with that.

Jayasing arrives at 8am to take me on tour around the town. He is one of the organization – First Ray of Hope. At this time the children are getting ready for school. It takes them about 30 minutes to walk to their schools. 

It’s raining and cool this morning. Jayasing and I bus into town to Swayanbhu. I’ve been here several times before but here we are visiting again. I did manage to find some parts I haven’t seen before. We then bus to the zoo. This is my first time here and it wasn’t too bad. Not many representatives from Australia, just a few birds and goanas. The plan is to go on to the royal palace museum, which I’ve already seen. I’m tired from a lack of sleep last night so I try to talk jayasing out of going to the museum but he doesn’t understand what I’m trying to say. I give in. It’s tedious going around the old palace and now I’m really tired. I refuse to taxi back to the orphanage do we pack into a micro bus. It’s hard work but we survive to return to the orphanage.