angusmccoll

Not much to report today. Time was spend blogging and editing photos. 

The trekking season is just beginning and there are more and more tourists in town, which is great for Nepal but I would prefer the place to my self. Selfish I know. Hotel Lily is busy and so is Raju. 

Raju’s wife is now back in Denmark with her family. Raju and Christina prefer the medical system in Denmake for this very important occasion. Sadly Raju’s mother is not happy that she won’t see the baby for a long time. I hope this hasn’t affected his relationship with his mother. It’s had to tell how family members feel about each other. When greeting there is no open display of hugging and kissing like we might do. There is a traditional Hindu show of respect between children and parents that involves the children bending down and touching their parents feet with their head. This is done to both feet individually. On departure there is nothing. Raju’s father wasn’t even there to see them off. It’s just different.

Raju’s mother gave us a Hindu  send off with a tika to the forehead, flower for behind the ear and 100 rupees. I felt uneasy about taking money from them because they’ve given us so much already.

Dipak is Nepalese born but now he and his Nepalese wife are Canadian citizens. He’s a researcher based with a university in the US looking at commercial bees here in Nepal. Like many well educated young people here, he sought postgraduate studies overseas and stayed. This results in a huge loss of talent to Nepal because the job opportunities are limited. Fortunately he’s come back here to do his research that may benifit his country. He and his brothers also play a part in organising volunteers and other useful things, which is great to see. He’s offered to show me around some of the research centers where his research is happening. He dispairs that Nepal has these government run research centers but little research is being done and when it is, it’s not being disseminated to relevant end users. We visit a research Centre near the botanical gardens on the edge of Kathmandu. There are things happening here and on display. It’s peaceful and he can help with explaining the trees and birds and of course insects. This is a valuable opportunity for me. I love this stuff. We visit a fisheries department research Centre with many dried-out ponds and no fish in the water-filled ones. Sad. 

The trip on his bike takes us past huge multistory housing developments that are now deserted since the earthquake. Thes tall structures would rival any high rise in Australia but now they have visible cracks in them that workers are busily pasting over. Dipak explains that owners paid up to $80000 US for a two bedroom apartment here but now are rendered worthless. People don’t want to live in these structures now and who could blame them. One of them has an obvious lean! But they didn’t collapse.

We stop by a Hidu temple where young guys are swimming clothed in the holy water. We ride through a Hindu street parade where there’s music, dancing and traditional dress. Dipak explains that different ethnic groups celebrat different parts of the Hindu culture in different ways. It’s a nice atmosphere.

The streets are so dusty and my eyes get their fill of grit from the back of the bike. It’s still very hazy but the sunset looks spectacular. On the surrounding mountains, giant spiritual icons are visible through the haze. There’s a giant Buddha in one place and a Hindu temple in another. It’s been another great day.

We decide to head back to Kathmandu today. There is much family discussion about the farm and future ownership this morning. The boys are determined to go against tradition and include their sister in ownership of the farm. Ganesh takes Jasper and me on another walk around the village. Fields are being ploughed by oxen to plant maize. They plant the seed into dry soil hoping for rain. It’s a risky way to crop because they might just genough rain to germinate the seed but without good follow up rain, the crop could perish. This is done on terraced fields sitting in the edge of steep slopes. 

Lunch time and the Roxy is on offer. We’re invited to Raju’s uncles place for more Roxy. He was in the Indian army for 20 years and has done well financially. He continues to receive a pension from them. His sons are also in the army and one is convalescing at home with a broken leg be got from falling from a tree while harvesting leaves for his goats. Next door we visit one of Raju’s mothers sister. Her husband died one year ago today so there is some ceremony to commemorate. Her daughter is here, widowed also at a young age. Her husband was a policeman and was killed by Maoists during the ‘people’s war’. She has some children and her chances of remarrying are very slim. Sadly it’s difficult for older women with children to find another partner, even though she is beautiful. The communist Maoists killed many policemen because the police, rather than the army, were the governments front line against the rebels. This Gorkha region was one of the active areas for Maoists and they recruited from this village. These must have been stressful times for the community. 

Anyway there is more Roxy and Cadje is quite drunk and very social. It’s getting late and we have a long drive ahead. We’re trying to get him to leave. Finally it’s goodby to his mother. Their father is away in the fields. Cadje’s emotional and so is his mother. He worries about her in this house with the likely hood of more earthquakes. Everyone here is on edge about a possible repeat of that devastating time. This village was fortunate. Dispite the damage to houses, there was very little if any loss of life. 

We eventually leave around 6.30 pm and Dipendra, our driver, has to negotiate the narrow rough road in the dark. It’s very slow going. Then the main road is a challenge as well with a busy mix of traffic. We arrive back at the hotel without incident around midnight.

Today we explore the village. There is a persistent haze of smoke and dust that softens the sun and limits the views. On a clear day the views from here are stunning I am told. Manaslu is one of Nepal’s higher peaks and is in the Gorkha region. It’s usually visible from here but not now and the villagers are concerned. It’s very dry, from a failed monsoon season last year and the earthquake has changed the aquifers so that plentiful springs are now useless. This is a major orange-growing area but a fungus has rendered the entire crop nonproductive. Trees are being removed. There’s a lot to worry about here but the proposed dam and hydro scheme will change life here, some for good and some for bad. Entrepreneurs are snooping around to buy up land for future growth in tourism.

There are two schools in the village. The main one has over 900 students, who can go right through to Year 12. Like so many other schools in earthquake torn Nepal, this large school had been temporarily rebuilt with tin and timber. The other school is higher up and caters for 270 students. This school is in the lower caste part of the village.

We walk up through this part of the village and Cadje stops in on a family. He’s never been a follower of the caste system and doesn’t let these cultural prejudices get in his way. We chat to a man who is a clothes maker and this is a typical occupation of a low caste, as are blacksmiths, carpenters, leather workers, etc. He’s getting on in years and his eyesight is making it difficult for him to thread a needle. He’s using a beautiful old peddle-powered sewing machine. I happen to have a cheap pair of glasses I bought from a chemist in Australia. He tries them and they help. They suit him too.

We continue up and chat to some of the school teachers from the school in the low caste area. A Danish benefactor has given money for the purchase of land to relocate the school, and the wages of two teachers. 

We make it to the top of the hill where there is a telecommunication tower and a temple. We sit and if it wasn’t for the haze, I’m sure we would be blown away by the view. Sadly there is little view. Ironically the haze does make for spectacular sunsets.

Raju’s family’s house is at the Centre of the community again as they gather for a meeting to discuss projects for the village. They have money now to do some things and they want to make a start. First up is a community toilet and shower near the temple. A library is on the plans too. Raju and Cadje have saved many books from the earthquake and this will be their new home. Great idea. The Roxy flows and it’s another great night. There is much discussion in Nepalese but the English speakers thoughtfully keep me in touch with what’s being discussed. I’ve felt so included the entire time I’ve been here, thanks to them.

We’re off to visit Raju’s and Cadje’s village today. Their village and family are in the Gorkha region. We’re going by jeep. We leave the hotel around 10am with Raju, Cadje, Ganesh and another friend from the village, and dipendta the driver. And Jasper. Jasper sponsors some children and has given money to the village for various causes. He’s 55 and from Denmark, and quite eccentric. He’s eccentricity is the product of autism, something he admits himself, but he comes from a wealthy family and has helped here in Nepal for many years. Jasper is a Christian Pastor and is doing some work for his church.

On leaving Kathmandu we drive past a pile of rubble that was once a church. Raju and Cadje explain the it was a church but the earthquake collapsed it with its congregation inside so many lives were lost. Apparently s service was in progress when the earth shook and the pastor locked the doors and told his followers we are safe here, Jesus will save them. The people started chanting ‘Rama Rama’, which is a Hindu god, but the pastor demanded they chant Jesus’s name. The building fell and  the entire congregation of over 50 people perished.

We exit Kathmandu and make our way along the main road that goes to pokhara. We lunch at Manakhu, which is on a river and is popular for its fish foods. The variety of fish products are interesting and include a small shrimp that is deep fried and eaten whole. We try a fish curry with rice. It’s nice. We turn off the highway here and cross the river. The road is now a very rough and windy dirt track that follows another river. We’re high up and this simple narrow track has some terrifyingly steep sides. Cadje explains that this river will be dammed for hydro power and a huge lake will consume much of the land we can see below us now. This will have a major impact on the villages we pass through. We’re traveling only 17 kilometers to the village but it takes 3 hours. We arrive around 5 to Raju’s and Cadje’s parents place. Their mother greets us in the Hindu tradition, marking our forehead with a mix of crushed rice and red dye and giving a small flower to put behind our ear. And a necklace of hibiscus flowers. Jasper will have no part of it sadly. His Christian beliefs won’t accept this greeting, which I think is disrespectful but the family don’t seem to mind.

Raju and Cadje’s parents are in their eighties. Nobody knows exactly how old because they don’t even know themselves. This is common in Nepal because records aren’t kept, no birth certificates. Their father still works in the field despite being stooped in posture and walking with the help of a stick. There are many in the village of their age. The life here must give longevity. Sadly there aren’t many young people following in their footsteps. They are educated and moving to the cities or overseas for an easier life and this is a Selina for the villages. Much land is being left unattended because there is nobody to work them. 

In Raju’s fathers family there are five boys. In his mother’s family there are five girls. The five boys married the five girls. And most of them still live in the village.

We relax at Raju’s parents house. Roxy is an alcohol made from fermented millet. It’s a Nepalese invention and each house would have their own production. It’s a clear drink with a low level of alcohol so it is often drunk throughout the day, even breakfast time. It’s offered to guests when they visit but it also dulls life’s pains. It’s mild and you can drink a lot before becoming intoxicated, and it’s completely organic so no nasty side effects. We relax and drink Roxy. The family gathers. Raju and Cadje have an older brother and sister, who live in the village, both married with grown children. Nepalese village life is very traditional and matriarchal. Land and property are passed down to the boys in the family but the boys in this family want their sister included in ownership of everything. This is progressive thinking. This is a proudly progressive family and they are respected members of the community. Villagers gather here tonight to welcome us through music and dance. And of course we are invited to take part. I’ve had enough Roxy now to give it a go. Ganesh helps explain what’s going on. Jasper again doesn’t want to take part. The party goes well beyond the day and I’m exhausted.

Today is Holi Day in this part of Nepal. It’s celebrated in the rest of the country and India tomorrow. It’s another Hindu festival and happens early in the a year and timed to fit with the lunar cycle. It’s also called the colour festival because the celebration involves coloured powder and coloured waters. People will come up to you in the street and wish you ‘Happy Holi Day’ while rubbing brightly coloured powder into your face, hair and clothes. Or you might get squirted with coloured water. People like to throw water out of high Windows on coloured revelers below. I’m not sure of the religious significance of this but these activities probably have as much relevance to the original meaning as Easter has to Chistianity. But who cares. I’ve never seen so much fun on such a scale. Everywhere you go the streets are packed with painted people in such high spirits. The only alcohol I see is being consumed by foreigners. The Nepalese are high on fun. It’s great to see. People of all ages get involved but it’s mainly the young. Free music in the streets gathers them into a dancing frenzy. 

As with any big celebration, not everyone benifits or have the capacity to participate. Every day counts for them and means food in their mouths. The beggars are still in the streets and the bag men/boys go about collecting recyclable things, amid the craziness.

There is a free concert happening in the people’s park in central Kathmandu. Thousands of people are already there and so many more flooding in. The dancing kicks up a large cloud of dust! Glad I’m not amongst that. 

I’m with Ganesh, who I bumped into on the street near the hotel. We’re now in a Main Street and there are people enmasse everywhere. Amazingly we come across Raju! How can that happen? In a single time and place we meet Raju in the middle of all this. Amazing. Raju is celebrating. He’s had a few drinks and is so happy, not just full of Holi Day fever but his very pregnant wife has flown home to Denmark to have their first child soon. I think he’s feeling wife-free right now and is letting his hair down. He’s here with his mates and they’re having a great time. I leave them to make my way back to the hotel. I get lost and end up at Durbar Square. There are painted people here too, everywhere. Fortunstely with the help of google maps I find my way.

It’s World Wood Day in Kathmandu. I arrange with Paruna to meet at the gates to Tri Chandra College so he can give me a tour of the Institution. But he tells me about this fantastic exhibition that’s happening not far away. It’s the World Wood Day Exhibition. Nations from all corners of the globe are here to show off their wood carving skills. It’s amazing to see such a large number of countries here, from the rich to the very poor. Some I haven’t heard of. Laos is here, so are little west African countries, and Australia too, and those impossible-to-pronounce USSR breakaways. Tools of the trade ranged from delicate little chisels to chainsaws of all sizes. This is day one of the exhibition so many of the big sculptures are at the start of their shape. Day four will have all the glory. Also on display are different Nepalese cultures displaying how wood is important to their way of life. Traditional dress and dance are also on show. What s fantastic thing.

Back at the hotel Raju’s brother explains the plan for our trip to his village in the Gorkha region. We leave on Wednesday. We also have a long talk about life in Nepal. He gives a thorough insight into the politics, religion and cultures of this amazing country. He’s both full of dispair and hope for the future. He can see somethings improving like the slow diminishing of the dreadful caste system that is integral to Hindu life. But he dispairs at the quality and conviction of Nepal’s politicians and the political system. The politicians are there for themselves, not for the people. Corruption is rife.

The caste system is incredibly complex. It determines who you can marry, who you can eat with, where you can go to worship your gods, and who you can socialize with. If a low caste even touches the food or water of a higher caste, the food is thought to be tainted and thrown out. Low caste people can’t enter the homes of high castes. It goes on. I can’t get my head around such discrimination. Raju’s brother grew up with this ideology ringing in his ears from all angles, including his parents, but he refused to listen. He teaches his children equality and he also fights the descrimination in an orphanage he runs. He sees things improving in the cities and even in the villages, though at s much slower pace. Education is the key. The more educated people become, the more they see the unfairness of it all. Sadly the Hindu faith perpetuates these descriminatory customs. Low castes can’t enter the Hindu temples to worship. They must practice their faith outside. There was an instance where the low castes protested in a village in Gorkha and a young man entered a temple. A fight broke out and he was banished from the village. He now lives in Kathmandu.

I met Purna last Wednesday when I wandered into the university grounds hoping to find a way to the top of the iconic clock tower.  He’s in his final year of a psychology degree. We chatted and he volunteered to show me around the Monkey Temple and introduce me to his church. Well today he did that. We met at the Monkey Temple (Swayanbhu). This is my third time to this temple and each time I’m learning more about this special place. While chatting I answer his questions about Australia. Explaining our history, I’m surprised he knew about James Cook discovering eastern Australia and claiming all for Britain. He didn’t know that white Australia started as a penal colony and that the first white Australians to populate the country were rogues, thieves and murderers! I explained that most crimes were small time so we’re mainly descended from small time bad people. He was surprised to learn this, but now understands why we are so different to the British.

From there Purna takes me to his sister’s restaraunt. He has four sisters and a brother. His father is retired army officer and now had a business. I order mo mos, which are a very typical Nepalese dish. The food is nice, ‘the best mo mos I’ve had’ I tell him. I asked him the question I ask every Nepalese. ‘What do you think happened on the night the royal family were massacred?’ He had an amazing insight into the event because his father was in the army at the time, though not at the palace that night. A friend was. There were army at the palace that night but during the shorting, they were instructed from high up to not get involved! Purna, like everyone else, doesn’t believe the official version of events. And like everyone else he believes the Kings brother was involved. The Kings brother was not there but his wife and son were. Miraculously, and mysteriously, they were spared when the rest of the Royal family were killed. While at the restaraunt Purna is busy preparing his sermon. Yes he is giving a sermon at his church tonight and he’s invited me to come. 

The church is in a normal looking multi storied brick building. The only thing indicating it’s a church are a few signs that say so. Christianity is a minor religion here in Nepal. Purna’s family converted from Hindu to Christian when one of his older sisters was suffering from psychological problems that traditional medical and psychological treatments couldn’t fix. His family in desperation investigated other avenues and found Christisnity worked. Deep in faith, she is well now. The congregation is small this afternoon. It’s difficult for Christians to meet on a Sunday in Nepal because Sunday is a working day. I’m warmly welcomed into the fold and get asked to briefly introduce myself to the audience. The entire service is delivered in English because this is an international church. It’s called ‘United Vision Church, International Fellowship’. The offer a service on Saturdays in Nelalese. There is a lot of singing and they are good at it. Purna presents his long sermon and after an hour, we’re done. I take their photo outside of the church. They warmly welcome me back for next week. I will go if I’m here.

A 30-minute walk gets me back to my hotel.

Today I wander around the city. I visit a university called Tri Chandra College. I just walked into the grounds for a look around. A serious game of cricket is in action in a small corner of the grounds. It’s a rough pitch but there is an umpire and an enthusiastic crowd of onlookers. They’re loving it. The buildings were created in 1918 and the clock tower is a bit of a feature in Kathmandu. It crumbled under the earthquake but has been rebuilt. I wanted to climb to the top but it was closed off. I did manage to chat to some of the students. Purna is in his final year of a 3-year Psychology degree. His looking to do postgraduate study overseas somewhere. Australia is a possible destination and so is the USA. I explained to him what opportunities might be available to him in Australia. 

It’s my turn to take Ganesh to an Australin movie. Mad Max is on. What a great choice! We meet Urish for coffee then make our way to the cinema. I’ve seen the film before bit was keen to see how these guys would view this auction-packed production. It was in 3D and cost around $3, compared to about $18 in Australia. And in true Nepalese style, there is an intermission! Australian films are t designed to have an intermission so a dramatic action scene is suddenly taken from us and replaced with a blank screen, then an intermission sign. It’s fairly jarring to the sensors. The film ends around 9pm and Ganesh and I walk back to the hotel along darkened blacked out streets. 

We walk past the old Royal Palace (now a museum) and Ganesh reveals to me his amazing story. In 2001 the royal family were massacred at this place. The official story records that they were gunned down by the drug-crazed crown prince, son of the King. Nobody believes this. Anyway…on the night of the massacre, around 10pm, Ganesh was walking past and heard shooting. He was right there when it all happened. He didn’t know what it was about until the next day when news reports revealed all. Ganesh could show me exactly where he was when the first shots rang out. How amazing is that, to be a witness of sorts to a major point in Nepal’s history.

Nothing special planned today. I expressed an interest to Ganesh to see a Nepalese movie. He finds one called ‘Dreams’ so around midday we go. There are no subtitles but strangely some of the dialogue is in Ebglush. The actors suddenly sprout a few lines of conversation that I can understand. It’s very much a Bollywood styled movie bit without the dancing. Much of it is shot in Kathmandu and Pokhara but there is a moment in the middle of the film where the lovers go to Mustang region, one of the most beautiful parts of Nepal. It was clearly written into the script to show Nepal at its best and why not! The scenery in Mustang is spectacular, with beautiful landscape and old worldy villages filling the screen.

‘Dreams’ a fairly cheesy production, which is what Bollywood movies are, and it had a tragic ending. They have an intermission in the movies in Nepal so suddenly the film stops mid flight and a sign pops up telling us it’s intermission. Anyway it was fun and to add to the fun, we decide to visit some of the locations from the film. There are a few within easy walking distance, including the street crossing where the female lead gets run over in a dream and where the male lead gets run over in the tragic end.